Money Savers

Get more for your money. Different factors change the price of a diamond, and you can use this information to find a diamond that's a great deal.

Fluorescence is a (normally) blue-white light effect that some diamonds exhibit. However, fluorescence can only occur in the presence of ultraviolet light (UV light). It is for this reason that UV light is used by diamond mining operations to aid in finding diamonds. Overall, fluorescence has little to no effect on the light display of a diamond under normal lighting conditions.

Put simply, fluorescence is the effect of ultraviolet (UV) light on boron atoms that are found within some diamonds. As we know, diamonds are the result of carbon deposits that have been subjected to tremendous pressure and heat found beneath the earth's surface over the course of millions of years. The carbon deposits normally also contain certain foreign mineral atoms. During the formation of the diamond some of these foreign mineral atoms become trapped within the diamond's crystalline structure. One of these foreign minerals is boron. As we have mentioned, it is the boron that is found in some diamonds that causes the fluorescent display when the diamond is exposed to ultraviolet (UV) light.

How Fluorescence Affects a Diamond

While fluorescence has no affect on the physical properties of the diamond, it can have an affect on the optical properties of a diamond. A diamond will receive a rating of "None" to "Very Strong" as far as the amount of fluorescence that can be seen in a given diamond. The level of fluorescence can change the perceived colour of the diamond when it is viewed in normal lighting situations allowing for a slightly more yellowish diamond to appear white.

The reason for this change is due to the effect of light on the diamond and the length of the light spectrum in which the diamond is being viewed. Most light sources contain some measure of UV light within the colour spectrum displayed. Sunlight, fluorescent lighting, and standard light bulbs all contain UV light within their light spectrums. These are the light sources in which most people will normally be viewing their diamonds.

In order to determine whether or not a diamond has fluorescence, the diamond must be viewed under a UV rich light. Most of us are familiar with UV lights, as they are popularly known as "black lights". If you have ever been in a nightclub, then you will probably be familiar with seeing white clothing, and even teeth, glowing with a notable bluish light. This is due to the UV lights that are used in such places. Much like the nightclub scenario, in which your clothing ceases to have the bluish glow to it once you move away from the black light range, diamonds also cease to exhibit this display when removed from UV light.

While fluorescence is not going to be as obvious under most normal lighting conditions, it may slightly affect the diamond's optical properties. For example, a diamond that has "strong" fluorescence may cause a diamond with a colour grade of I to appear clearer than its colour grade when it is viewed in sunlight. What causes this is the effect of fluorescence on the diamond. The slight yellow of the I grade diamond is somewhat offset by the faint blue that results from a "strong" fluorescence when the UV in the sunlight causes the fluorescence in the diamond.

It is still debated as to whether or not fluorescence can actually have any noticeable effect on the diamond's clarity. In 1997 GIA presented their findings on the effects of fluorescence on diamonds. The results of their research found that only about 1% of polished diamonds had a level of fluorescence that was strong enough to have a negative effect on the clarity of a diamond. In this tiny percentage of diamonds, known as "over blues", diamonds can appear to be oily, milky or hazy due to fluorescence. One of the world's most famous diamonds is an "over blue", the 127 carat Portuguese Diamond, currently held at the Smithsonian in Washington DC.

The research actually found that fluorescence had either no effect or varying levels of positive effect on any given diamond (apart from the "over blues" which were discounted from the study). In fact, the colour grades of I-K had the most positive effects as a result of fluorescence, with their colour looking notably clearer when the fluorescence was "strong" or "very strong". The study rated the observations of both diamond professionals as well as those who had no connection to the diamond trade. The professionals had a difficult time finding differences between diamonds with fluorescence and diamonds without, often disagreeing on the same diamonds. Non-trade observers had an even more difficult time than the professionals.

Diamond graders and other diamond professionals utilize UV lights in order to determine if a diamond displays fluorescence. If it does, it will have a faint to very strong bluish glow to it in the presence of the UV light. GIA and other labs note on their grading certificates as to whether or not a diamond displays fluorescence. It does not take the presence or absence of fluorescence into account in the overall grading of the diamond, but merely notes the fluorescent level. A diamond will be noted to have one of the following levels of fluorescence:

• None (or Inert or Negligible)
• Faint
• Medium
• Strong
• Very Strong

There are those, such as Rapaport of the Rapaport Report, who believe that fluorescence is still a notable negative factor on diamonds. This belief does not come out of an actual effect of fluorescence on the optical or physical properties of the diamond. Instead, this view comes from a pragmatic understanding that any additional factors on a diamond certificate are normally viewed with a negative light in the consumer's eye. Therefore, the presence of fluorescence must bring down the cost of a diamond.

This is also due to the fact that there is a strong disagreement on the light used in the grading of a diamond. When a diamond is graded in a light that contains UV light, the UV light within the grader's light could potentially cause a diamond to be given a higher colour grading if the diamond has fluorescence. Therefore, the argument goes, the potential for a higher colour grading than is deserved creates the need to bring down the value of a diamond that exhibits fluorescence.

Fluorescence was first discovered and named in 1852 by a British scientist by the name of George G. Stokes. He discovered that the mineral fluorite (also known as calcium fluoride) would give off a bluish light when exposed to a strong ultraviolet light source. He named this phenomenon after the mineral he first discovered it in. It is for this reason that this is now known as fluorescence.

What actually occurs when you see fluorescence is the result of reactions occurring within the atomic structure of the object in question, in this case, a diamond. When UV light hits the diamond, any boron within the crystalline lattice structure of the diamond is affected. The electrons of the atoms absorb the high-energy photon that is emitted by the UV light. This absorption causes electrons to jump to the next orbit around the atomic nucleus. The electrons then drop back to their original orbit, re-emitting the energy at a lower energy level, and with a lower wavelength photon.

The result of this atomic reaction is that you see a (normally) bluish light when a fluorescent diamond is exposed to UV light rays. The UV light is transmitting at a high energy level that is not within the visible light spectrum. Once the light photons are re-emitted back to the viewer's eye, they are at a lower energy level, and so are within the visible light spectrum. In diamonds this reaction normally ceases at the moment that the UV light source is removed. Diamonds do not exhibit the phenomenon known as phosphorescence, in which the light reaction continues for a time after the removal of the UV light.

Fluorescence does not have a huge impact on a diamond's optical properties, but can have a dramatic impact on its pricing. When looking through diamonds, it is important to check whether or not the diamond exhibits fluorescence. If it is indicated as having slight to medium, it should be of no concern. If the diamond has strong fluorescence it will be important to consult with a diamond specialist or view it for yourself, under different lighting conditions, and decide what effect you feel the fluorescence has. Less than 1% of the diamonds with fluorescence are affected in a negative way. If the diamond looks good to you, and more importantly, looks good to the person who will be wearing it, then the fluorescence is simply saving you money.

Due to the slight effect that bluish fluorescence can have on yellow, you could potentially buy a diamond that appears clearer, or whiter, than it actually is. By finding a diamond with a grade of say, J, that exhibits strong fluorescence, your J could appear to be a I or even an H. This could allow you to save money, or go for a higher grade in one of the other 4 Cs.

In the end, the presence of fluorescence will cause a diamond to be given a lower cost than the same diamond without fluorescence but will in no way affect its beauty. If you are not bothered by the fluorescence, then this is a simple way to save money. Remember to always ask if the diamond is affected by the fluorescence, if it is noted on the certificate as displaying any sort of fluorescence.

Diamond certification is also known as a diamond grade report. This is a fairly straightforward process by which a diamond is measured and tested. The results of this scientific study of a particular diamond are recorded in a report that accompanies the diamond. This report, or certification, serves as an identifier or fingerprint for the particular diamond, as no two diamonds are alike.

The certification process is carried out by a gemological laboratory. Gemological laboratories should be independent of any diamond retailers or wholesalers, to avoid any conflict of interests or bias. The gemological laboratory will take the diamond, loose only, and measure its various attributes and dimensions. Amongst the loose diamond's particulars that are measured are the 4 Cs of Cut, Colour, Clarity and Carat. The diamond's flaws (or inclusions) are noted and, depending on the laboratory grading the diamond, can be plotted on a diagram of the diamond. The laboratory then produces the paperwork and sends it on, accompanying the diamond for which it was prepared. It must be noted that not all gemological laboratories are equal in either their costs or their grading results.

There are many different gemological laboratories available to the diamond-buying public. Some of the more well known, respected and trusted are the following: GIA (Gemological Institute of America), AGS (American Gemological Society), HRD (Hoge Raad Voor Diamant; Diamond High Council), PGS (Professional Gem Sciences), EGL (European Gemological Institute) and the IGI (International Gemological Institute). Each of these has there own criteria and method of grading loose diamonds, but they all operate within a high set of parameters, in regards to grading a diamond's attributes and dimensions. Be aware that as each has its own methods, each also has its own expense guides for preparing a certificate.

The laboratory that is held in the highest regard by the diamond industry is the Gemological Institute of America. GIA's standards for grading have set the bar for all other gemological laboratories, making it the most trusted and respected name in gemological laboratories. It is because of this that a GIA certificate tends to be more expensive than certificates from other laboratories. However, the additional cost of receiving a grade report from GIA is offset by the benefits that can be found in the veracity and reliability of GIA grade report. With such a grade report, you are assured of knowing exactly and precisely what the graded diamond is, in regards to the 4Cs and the mapping of the particular diamond's flaws, which can allow you to have a strong tool in correctly assessing its value.

Among the other aforementioned gemological laboratories, AGS is on par with GIA for grading standards. In fact, it is the AGS grading for cut that served as an impetus for the GIA recently adding Cut grading to their grading reports. HRD out of Antwerp, Belgium is also a greatly respected name in the diamond industry, as is the still relatively small, PGS. A certificate from any of these laboratories can be considered accurate and reliable.

Another pair of gemological laboratories is EGL and IGI. Each of these laboratories is fine in their own right, but neither have the name and reputation of GIA or any of the other previously mentioned gemological laboratories. Much of this is due to the fact that both EGL and IGI tend to over-grade the loose diamonds that are sent to them, as well as having less strict grading scales and training requirements for their gemologists. For example, EGL created the grade of SI3 for Clarity. This is the equivalent of the I1 by GIA standards (which does not accept the SI3 grade in its grading scale). In addition to this, a diamond that received a grade in clarity of VS2 from either EGL or IGI would most likely receive a grade of SI1 from the GIA.

As a result of the inflated grading scale offered by EGL and IGI (normally one grade over on clarity and one to two grades over on colour) diamonds graded by either of these laboratories will have a lower value than a diamond with the same grade from GIA. For jewelry stores that have a set stock of diamonds, or for large department stores, an inflated grade from EGL or IGI can help them to shift their stock quicker, and for less money, as EGL and IGI grade reports are less expensive than the GIA reports. This is an important fact to be aware of when looking into certifications, as not all certifications are created equal.

It is important to remain aware of the facts around certification and its process. While it is possible to find diamonds with the same grade notably cheaper one place, such as a mall jewelry store, than at another, there are no huge bargains within the diamond industry. The discovery of an enormous cost reduction in one store over another, for the same grade of diamond, simply indicates that one diamond retailer is selling diamonds with inflated grades from a less reputable gemological laboratory. More than likely, the reduced-cost diamond has been given an over-inflated grade in order to move it out of the store quickly. Always make certain to identify the source of the grade report. If you have not heard of the laboratory, it could very well be associated in some way with the store itself, and so have a vested interest in aiding the store's sales.

Diamond shapes that are not round brilliant diamonds fall into the broad category of Fancy shapes. This is an enormous category with an ever-growing list of diamond shapes. In the world of diamonds there are currently 13 shapes that have been able to both withstand the test of time and remain popular shape choices. These are the Marquise, Oval, Pear, Heart, Asscher, Emerald, Princess, Cushion, Trillion, Radiant, Baguette, Old Miner, and European. Having a working familiarity with each of these shapes can be a wonderful aid in helping you to find the perfect diamond.

The Fancy shapes can be difficult to have the proper proportions, because the fancy shapes, by their very nature, do not have the kind of symmetry and set proportions that are found in round brilliants. The shapes found in Fancy shaped diamonds often have facets that are asymmetrical and elongated. These irregularities found in the facets result in not only a loss of brilliance, but can also cause shadows within the diamond. It is this shadowing that causes such effects as the "bowtie" effect to occur in some Fancy shapes. The "bowtie" effect is a dark shadow seen within the diamond that resembles a bowtie. This effect is typically found in Fancy shapes such as Oval, Marquise and Pear.

It can be easier to understand these 13 Fancy shapes by looking at them divided by their shape type. The four shape types are Modified Brilliant Cut, Step Cut, Mixed Cut and Old World Cut. As can be inferred from the names of these divisions, the basis for the four categories is the manner of the cut of the diamond. The type of cut is used as the division because the final shape is dependent on the type of cut the diamond cutter decides to utilize.